In this part of Lakeland the scenery attains an extra quality for the lover of the fells. Here if not exclusively are found the grandest crags and the wildest ravines. To reach Scafell Pike walkers have to cross acres of boulders, and from here all else seems less dominant; even the nearby Great Gable and Bowfell are not quite as proud as usual. From the savage cliffs of Great End in the north, over the awesome declivity of Ill Crag, the rugged and sterile Broad Crag, the supreme and magnificent Scafell Pike to the greatest crag of all on Scafell there is no relenting in the wildness. This is called the roof of England, and it is solid and sturdy as one would wish it to be. There is a tendency to associate these fells with Wasdale, and certainly it's proximity to that valley may justify the link. The area can conveniently be reached from Seathwaite in Borrowdale, and less so from Dungeon Ghyll in Great Langdale. For me though pride of place goes to Eskdale, for the longer approaches lead to the Scafells grandest scenery towering above the highest reaches of the River Esk. This is the greatest display of a mountain ridge in the district, and the valley below, a perfect example of a hanging valley unspoilt and untamed sets it off perfectly. Wastwater Screes are definitely the preserve of Wasdale, and whether one is by the lake shore gazing up at them, or on the ridge looking down, there is nowhere else like it. The Screes are unique and give an impression of height quite beyond the reality. Only at Esk Hause is there a high link with other fells, as Wasdale and Eskdale clearly define the boundaries elsewhere. While it is feasible to visit Scafell Pike and walk round to Bowfell, or onto the Glaramara ridge, surely it is better having arrived on this great range to spend some time there and visit all the summits one can. On Lingmell, Great End and indeed Ill Crag the views and the situations are if anything finer than the Pike itself can offer. It is the overlord in terms of height, but it does not lord it over the others entirely. If the day can include several summits as mentioned then the long stony descent will not seem so wearisome, as there will have been much to savour and recall in the memory. Helvellyn may have the most visitors perhaps, but in part that may be due to easier access. The Scafells undoubtably have the advantage in terms of showing Lakeland at it's grandest.

ROUTE ONE. SCAFELL PIKE FROM SEATHWAITE VIA SEATHWAITE FELL,
GREAT END, ILL CRAG AND BROAD CRAG.
6.25 miles 3350ft of ascent.

      Seathwaite Fell is not normally included when Scafell Pike is the main objcctive, nor is it often visited, but it cannot be left out and as it is in reality the lower shoulder of Great End it seems right to place it here. Take the main track up the valley from the farm to Stockley Bridge, and go straight ahead after crossing the stream here, not left by the wall, to start the ascent towards Sty Head. If Seathwaite Fell is to bc omitted then do keep by the wall up Grains Gill, and rejoin the route at the head of Ruddy Gill. Path improvements have helped to make this climb less arduous, but the easing of the gradient beyond the larches above Taylor Gill is welcome. Leave the track some 100 yards or so further on prior to it levelling out, and tum up the fellside left into a shallow recess. Higher up there is a little easy scrambling, but work right of a rock outcrop and then contour above it before inclining right again to the ridge. The summit of Seathwaite Fell is now a short distance away topping a rocky knoll. A thin path continues along the ridge to the higher part of the fell, and passes a delightful small tarn before descending to Sprinkling Tarn. Great End towers above, and the route bears left up the main track from Sty Head. Take the right hand option at the fork a little further on after the path coming across Ruddy Gill has been passed, and the watershed at Esk Hause will be reached. Go right now into the hollow of Calf Cove, but once the ridge to Great End appears on the right after a short stony climb pick up the path there to the fell. There are two cairned tops with the one to the right being generally accepted as the highest, but visit both and search for the heads of the gullies. The view down to Sprinkling Tarn is sensational. Return to the col and ascend the main path once more over a tricky section of large boulders. On the easier ground beyond bear left to the grand little summit of Ill Crag which is perched high above Upper Eskdale; a situation that the top of the Pike cannot match. Again retum to the path and descend left across another col onto Broad Crag. It's summit cairn is only just above the bouldery track, but the top is extremely rugged. A final descent has to be made over more large boulders, and then an eroded rib succeeded by more amenable stones leads to the large circular plinth on Scafell Pike. The descent to Seathwaite is best made via the Corridor Route either by turning down at the col below Broad Crag, or by leaving the summit north west and curving down to Lingmell Col. If the weather is not clear the first option is best.

ROUTE TWO. SCAFELL PIKE FROM WASDALE HEAD VIA LINGMELL.
3.5 miles 3200ft of ascent.  2.5 miles 2400ft of ascent to Lingmell.

  Leave Wasdale Head along the track at the head of Wast Water leading to Wasdale Head Hall and the Fell and Rock Climbing hut at Brackenclose. Keep left of the latter by the stream, and beyond the footbridge turn up the path leftonto Lingmell’s south west ridge. This is steep and at times covered by screes, but higher up becomes more pleasant. On arriving at the summit of Lingmell there are tremendous downward views into the depths of Piers Gill. Go south down to the col and heading slightly to the right link up with the track to Scafell Pike from Brown Tongue. It is now a well blazed stony trail to the summit. The most direct descent is to go back down towards Lingmell Col, and keep with the path descending into Hollow Stones and down Brown Tongue. To make a great day of it though far better to traverse the ridge to Esk Hause, and go down to Sty Head where the old pony route near Spouthead Gill should be sought.

ROUTE THREE. SCAFELL PIKE FROM WASDALE VIA SCAFELL.
4.25 miles 3600ft of ascent via Lords Rake or 3850ft of ascent via Foxes Tarn.  3 miles 2950ft of ascent to Scafell.

   Begin along the track at the head of Wast Water which leads to Brackenclose and Wasdale Head Hall farm. After crossing Lingmell Gill turn up the path to Burnmoor and continue to the point where it traverses the top of Fence Wood. Lookfor a path going up the unremitting slope to Grren How and the more sterile upper reaches. If the path is followed carefully it will lead direct to the summit, but it is easy to drift across to the main track above Scafell Crag which is badly eroded. In former times the royal way to Scafell would have been up Brown Tongue and Lords Rake, but this although passable is no longer a pleasure either. The best way to Scafell now is from Eskdale. A wider sweep can be made from Wasdale by going towards Burnmoor Tarn, but cutting across to Oliver Gill and ascending up Broad Tongue to Slight Side following the ridge up from there. Assuming Scafell has been attained despite all go to the saddle between the summit and Symonds Knott. Turn down to the right now and have some sympathy for the team who tried to repair the path down to Foxes Tarn. If only people would respect the efforts made in restoring these places, and not go sliding straight down and covering the path with debris. Once by the tarn the path descends a gully to join the track coming up from Cam Spout. Turn left up a steep loose slope to Mickledore and bear right along the path to the summit. I cannot recommend using Lords Rake as a means to link Scafell and The Pike, but it is an option for the stout hearted! Descents as in Route Two are best effected by going down to Lingmell Col for Hollow Stones and Brown Tongue.

ROUTE FOUR. SCAFELL FROM ESKDALE (Wha House) VIA GREAT HOW AND
SLIGHT SIDE.
5.25 miles 3300ft of ascent.

  For most walkers Scafell would be the obvious terminus of this ascent, but please refer to Route Three if it is desired to extend it to the Pike. Leave Wha House over the stile on the tiny parking area opposite the farm. The path is not the easiest to ascend being a real jumble of rocks stones and marshy ground with one or two tricky twists and turns. Eventually the view opens out and the smooth slopes below Slight Side appear ahead. The path crosses a small stream on reaching the open moor, and if Great How is to be included follow the stream up. The top of Great How is a place of rock outcrops, and a scattering of small tarns not without some character. However in an area of finer attractions it is rarely visited. From the summit head south of east to pick up the well used route from Stony Tarn to Slight Side. As with any visit to the Scafells a long stiff climb has to be done sometime, and that is here, but the fine summit of Slight Side is a good place to sit down and recover. There is a short descent before a series of rises up a well defined ridge to Scafell; the ground becoming rougher as height is gained. The view down to the River Esk at Cam Spout is very good indeed.

ROUTE FIVE. ILLGILL HEAD FROM ESKDALE GREEN VIA WHIN RIGG.
4.5 miles 1975ft of ascent.

      The walk starts at an old quarry below Irton Pike on the road from Eskdale Green to Wasdale. Walk towards Wasdale and look carefully for a monument half buried in the roadside vegetation. Having read the inscription and hopefully still optimistic about life ascend the narrow overgrown path up to Irton Pike. Forestry operations and the natural growth of the trees may have to be overcome here. There is an alternative from the quarry up the bridleway to Wasdale when on attaining the ridge turn back along it to the Pike. It is now just a matter of ascending the gradual rising ridge over Irton Fell where a good route from Eskdale Green comes out of the plantations. If Irton Pike is not to be included then leave the village by the public conveniences along Giggle Alley to Miterdale. Across the lane the bridleway to Wasdale begins it’s journey through the plantations.The ridge path is wet in places until the head of Greathall Gill is reached. At this point a path comes steeply up from the foot of Wast Water. The summit of Whin Rigg is the start of a grand ridge walk, but every opportunity must be made to walk along the rim of the Screes to appreciate it. To follow the main path to Illgill Head is to miss the point of being here.

The Screes are of course easily visited from either end of Wast Water, and Illgill Head is usually ascended from Wasdale Head. To vary the return to Eskdale go down south east towards Burnmoor Tarn, but tum right along a prominent path which goes down into Miterdale contouring the lower slopes of Illgill Head. Beyond Low Place take to the forest road, and walk through the plantations to come out a short mile on the road from the starting point.

ROUTE SIX. ILLGILL HEAD FROM BOOT VIA BOAT HOW.
4 miles 2100ft of ascent. 1.75 miles 925ft of ascent to Boat How.

   Cross Whillan Beck at Boot and ascend the track up Boot Bank. Above the intake walls watch for a path branching off in the same general direction. This leads to a profusion of ancient remains and stone circles on Brats Hill. A good path heads towards Boat How from here though it will have to be left to climb to the top. There was no cairn when I was last on Boat How. A thin path from the top sets off in the direction of Burnmoor Tarn and it rejoins the main path above the Lodge. Go round the tarn, and just past an interesting old enclosure look out for a path on the left that crosses a wet streambed before climbing and contouring round to the Illgill Head ridge path. It is a long walk back to Boot if Whin Rigg is included and Route Five used for the descent. To reach Boot on footpaths from Eskdale Green means going down to Forge Bridge and following the riverside up to Dalegarth Hall. A good idea in the summer season is to catch the train at The Green station and finish the day in style.

NOTE. For those walkers thinking of climbing Scafell Pike from Dungeon Ghyll via Rossett Gill and Angle Tarn to Esk Hause the distance is 7 miles 3,600ft of ascent visiting the tops as on Route One.